Outdoor Adventures
Outdoor Adventures
Bicycling Adventures in New Mexico
Climbing in New Mexico
The practice and pursuit of climbing up chunks of rock has changed and evolved along with access, technology, and society. In Northern New Mexico, the popularity of the sport has increased dramatically in the last five years, as more and more people find a new way to get outside and/or learn a new skill. As indoor climbing gyms spring up, more and more people are finding that climbing is a great way to exercise, build confidence, and community.
A brief word on grades, gear, and types of climbing:
The difficulty of a climbing route (in the USA) is graded on a scale of 5.1-5.15, with increasing difficulty as the number behind the decimal point increases. Once you get to 5.10, climbs often have an a,b, or c suffix which simply adds nuance to how difficult the climb is.
Not all grades are created equal! A 5.9 slab climb should not be directly compared to a 5.9 crack climb, as the technique and type of climbing can affect the difficulty for an individual.
Belaying & Safety
The greatest hazard in rock climbing is falling. This hazard is mitigated in part by climbing with a two-person team composed of a climber and belayer, a rope, an anchor, and a belay device.
If you have never belayed or set up an anchor before, find someone experienced who will teach you. Friends, family, or coworkers that are experienced climbers are a good resource, as are professional guides, mountaineering clubs, and indoor climbing gyms. See the Safety section for more.
Gear
Gear can get expensive! If it’s your first time climbing, check out an indoor gym where you can rent a harness and shoes. When you decide you love climbing, invest in personal gear first: a rock helmet, harness, belay device and carabiner, and climbing shoes.
If you are bouldering, you need a crash pad and climbing shoes and lots of people to “spot” you.
Other gear depends on what type of climbing you are doing, and includes rope, anchor-building gear (e.g. carabiners and slings), quickdraws, cams, nuts, and carabiners.
Common types of climbing
Sport - A form of climbing that relies on fixed bolts and anchors. The climber clips in quickdraws to the fixed bolts as they climb to protect them from falling. These routes are often focused on ability and strength.
Top Rope - A broad type of climbing where the anchor is set up at the top of the climb (usually by hiking around and up) before anyone ascends. Usually uses fixed anchors.
Bouldering - Climbing on freestanding boulders without a rope. These climbs are rated on a different scale than other climbs, and are generally short and focus on big moves. The climber is protected by a crash pad(s) and spotters, who are other climbers trained to help the climber fall safely.
Traditional (trad) - Traditional climbing is where the climber places protection (usually cams or nuts) in the wall (e.g. cracks) as they go, and removes them once the climb is complete. Trad climbing incorporates the mental game as well as physical, as the climber must problem-solve to place gear and build anchors.
Safety
“Good judgement is the result of experience and experience the result of bad judgement.” -- Mark Twain
There are inherent hazards associated with climbing, as well as hazards to the environment. A responsible climber takes steps to mitigate both.
One of the safest ways to begin climbing for the first time, or if you are an experienced climber new to the area, is to go with a group of experienced climbers (see How To Get Involved). Remember that just buying a rope, helmet, and harness does not make you safe! Experience and education and the appropriate application of both makes you safe.
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A Non-Exhaustive Safety Checklist |
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To protect self:
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To protect environment:
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Climbing in Northern New Mexico
The “Land of Enchantment” is home to crags with diverse geology ranging from columnar basalt, sandstone cracks and pocketed limestone formations, to granite. The geography of the state lends itself to year-round climbing if you are willing to drive a bit, and the variety of sport, trad, and bouldering (and even some ice!) promises to always provide a challenge.
There are several climbing areas close to Los Alamos and Santa Fe, these include:
- White Rock Crags
- Diablo Canyon and Coxcomb Crag
- Las Conchas
- Cochiti Mesa Crags
- Gilman Tunnels
White Rock Area
As anyone who grew up climbing around Los Alamos knows, the White Rock area has over 10 crags on basalt with grades ranging from 5.4 to 5.12. The numerous top rope climbs make this area perfect for beginner-intermediate, although the sport and trad routes can challenge the experienced climber as well. Easy access also makes this crag a great after-work spot to get a good pump in before the sun sets. It can get hot here in the summer! So check it out in the spring/fall or go early before the rock heats up.
Diablo Canyon
With towering columnar basalt up to 300 ft., the cliffs of Diablo Canyon promise interesting and challenging climbing. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.13 with the majority of the routes ≥5.10. Diablo Canyon Recreation Area is an approximate 40 minute drive from Santa Fe, located off of Old Buckman Road. The dirt access road can get treacherous after precipitation events so plan accordingly. There is a porta-potty in the parking area and hiking trails through the canyon-- go for a scouting mission to stretch your legs and take in the views.
Caution: Rock fall is a significant danger here! Always wear a helmet, lead carefully, and position belayers and spectators out of the line of fire.
Indoor Climbing
An indoor climbing gym is a great way to get started climbing! You can go with a friend or by yourself and use auto-belays; gyms also generally have bouldering walls which require no belay. Santa Fe (https://climbsantafe.com/) and Albuquerque (https://climbstoneage.com/) both have climbing gyms, with rental gear available if you don’t want to invest yet. Ask about an “Intro to Climbing” package when you call or visit for the first time, many gyms teach classes that cover basic technique, safety, knot-tying, and more. These are a great way to make climbing friends!
When you’re ready for more, Northern New Mexico is also a great jumping-off point to other types of climbing! Check out ice climbing in Ouray, CO in the winter, and red sandstone crack climbing or canyoneering in Southern Utah. The high peaks in Southern Colorado provide awesome scrambling and mountaineering routes. There’s a world to explore!
How to Get Involved
Climbing can be intimidating. There is the lingo (“Careful, that guy over there is going to spray beta on you if you try to flash the off-width.”), the hazards, the exposure, and the many barriers to entry including cost, social mobility, and accessibility. The good news is that you can start off easy, and there are groups dedicated to get you climbing! Check out the following organizations:
- Los Alamos Mountaineering Club (http://lamountaineers.org/)-- LAMC has been committed to the climbing in the Los Alamos/White Rock area for decades and often organize community events such as “Top Rope Tuesdays.”
- YMCA, Los Alamos (https://laymca.org/climbing-wall)-- This YMCA has a climbing wall and provides instruction classes for youth, as well as open climb hours for youth and adults.
- Gyms and Guiding Services-- Go to the experts! There are numerous climbing guides in the Northern New Mexico area that you can find with a quick Google search. Indoor climbing gyms are also a great resource, more affordable than a guide, and a good way to meet people (see Indoor Climbing, in previous section).
- Mountain Project (https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105708964/new-mexico)-- Crag and route information from the high-level to the details. Look it up online and/or download the app.
- Color the Crag (https://sendingincolor.com/index.php/color-the-crag/)-- A climbing festival to celebrate diversity in rock climbing! Also a great springboard to find other like-minded organizations (like Melanin Basecamp (https://www.melaninbasecamp.com/)).
- Flash Foxy (https://flashfoxy.com/)-- An online platform and a climbing festival to celebrate women climbing with women.
References:
- Rock Climbing in New Mexico, a Falcon Guide, Dennis R. Jackson
- Kayley You Mak, Personal Reference
- Mountain Project, New Mexico
- Santa Fe New Mexican, Climbing in Land of Enchantment explodes in popularity, by Olivia Harlow
- Photographers: Kayley You Mak, Julian Dann, Nathan Phillips, and Faith Doty
